Zambia

Zambia

Sunday, November 6, 2011

Holy Crap A Blog Entry!

Much has happened since last I wrote so I will just try to summarize and give some highlight stories.  I also want to note that I am listening to a New England Patriots radio broadcast on the web while typing this.  Even though it is the Pats I am ecstatic to hear some NFL talk radio!!

Since my last blog I have actually started to do some work!  (amazing)  Here are a few of the activities we have begun.  There is a club of women who meet twice a week and sew.  They work on patching clothes and making skirts for schoolgirls.  The kids here have a dress code for school so there is a built in market for school clothes.  Even if they do not sell them they can use them for their own children.  Our chicken house is almost complete.  Chickens are usually completely free range, which sounds great and does produce tasty chickens but is terrible for egg production.  One of our villages is attempting to create a brooding house for chickens.  This will allow separation of the roosters from the hens and provide some unfertilized eggs.  The biggest obstacle is actually the nature of the free range chicken system.  The free range chickens require absolutely no work to keep.  This makes creating a chicken house a really hard sell.  When you can get something for nothing is it difficult to start putting work into it and not see much improvement for quite sometime.  However, the house is almost complete and the time to start selecting chickens is near.  Beekeeping is already well established but we are starting to demonstrate improved hives which create better honey, higher yields and are easier on the forest.  We have also started a village clean up program which has turned out to be extremely difficult.  Try to imagine what home would be like without a garbage service or public dump and everyone was responsible for taking care of their own trash.  That is the way it is hear and as a result you can find trash everywhere.  We are trying to join forces with another organization to help tackle this huge problem.

The rainy season has recently begun.  We now get rain everyday.  We live in the wettest part of Zambia and December has the most rainfall.  When it rains everything stops.  People head for cover and any work or scheduled meetings simply stop.  I hear the thunder in the distance right now.  Usually, a strong sign that the rains are coming.

I spent my birthday in Livingstone.  I saw Victoria Falls and holy shit that is a huge spectacle of nature.  I hiked up around the top of the falls and waded in the river.  The area is overrun with baboons.  They are completely wild but being intelligent animals they have learned how to live with humans.  While walking down to the base of the falls a large baboon tried to grab Kelly's bag.  I immediately sprang into action to defend my wife.  I raised my hand to hit the beast when I got a full view of his fangs and noticed that he was at least have as tall as me.  Being the logical person that I am, I decided against physically assaulting the animal and resorted to yelling at it as if it was a child.  The baboon let go of Kelly's bag and I thought the ordeal was over but as we walked away it reached out and grabbed my heel.  For the record, yes I jumped away from the creature and was glad to see he was leaving.

The next day we went on the Zambezi rafting.  This rafting put any rafting I have done at home to complete shame.  There were 10 rapids during our half day trip.  Four of these rapids were class five.  Having your raft capsized in the middle of a class five rapid is a soul shaking experience.  I loved it!!  I would describe more but I think I will let any pictures Kelly puts up tell the story.  If you are curious just look up whitewater rafting on the Zambezi and you can get a glimpse of the experience. 

WARNING:  The following is a somewhat personally damaging story but I believe it gives a good idea of the experience here.  Also, depending on my writing skills, may be a bit graphic.  Read at your own risk!

There is a phenomenon calling "Joining the Club" among the volunteers here.  It is said everyone joins the club at some time during their service you just never know when it is your time.  During one of our trips to the provincial house my friend (who shall remain unnamed) explained that he had just recently "joined the club" outside of his hut.  I understood and was sympathetic while we journeyed to the house for a conference.  A few days later we were getting on the crowded bus and returning to our own district.  When we arrive in the BOMA it is too late to bike home so Kelly and I along with two of our friends(including the previously unnamed volunteer) shared a room at a lodge.  Keep in mind that our BOMA is not on the national power grid therefore the electricity and water turn off at midnight. Around one in the morning I awoke with a rumbling and bubbling in my stomach.  I was sleeping in nothing but my undies as it is very hot a muggy at night.  I slipped on my pants and flip flops and proceeded out into the dark hallway of the lodge.  About half way to the bathroom the dam broke.  I literally shit myself in the hallway of a public lodge.  I was now faced with my first decision of the evening.  What to do next?  I decided to proceed in the dark to the restroom and finish the job.  Once I had completely unloaded it was now time to evaluate the situation.  I was now sitting in the complete darkness on a full toilet and with my own feces down my left leg and into my pants.  Remember, there is no water for flushing or cleaning myself.  So there I sat in the darkness not sure what my next move would be.  Between me and the room is about 40 feet of pitch black, public hallway and I have no light.  I chose to remove my pants and return to my room, in the dark, wearing nothing but my flip flops.  Fortunately, no one else was in the hallway but now I am standing naked in my completely dark broom, shit down my leg with my wife and two friends asleep in their beds.  After some contemplation I ask my friend if he has a light I could use.  Before he is able to respond I warn him, for his sake and that of the two female occupants, that I am completely naked.  He carefully turns on the light and hands it to me.  I now return down the hall with a rag, still naked mind you.  I find the bucket up back up water and soak the rag.  I do not have anything to scoop with so I take the rag into the public shower and proceed to clean myself as best as possible.  After finishing I disposed of my soiled clothes and go down the public hall in my birthday suite once again.  Fortunately, I had another set of clothes to wear in the morning.  I had now officially "joined the club".  This story and the fact that shitting yourself has a name here and is considered relatively normal should give you some idea of how different things are.  Each day is an unknown and you never know when you will find yourself in situation which you have never given any thought as to what you would do if it happened!

Sunday, April 3, 2011

Catching up on as much as possible

Hello peeps,

This is my first chance to use the internet and not have to pay by the minute so I am going to fill in some information in a topical manner by hitting some of the main events in life and how it works in Zambia.

Food & Drink:
I am currently living with a Zambian family about 40 km outside of Lusaka.  They feed me every day 3 meals a day.  Breakfast has been the same thing everyday for about 5 weeks.  It consists of some form of bread(white bread, rolls or muffins) with peanut butter and jelly.  I like it!  Lunch and dinner is on a rotation of tomato onion soup, rice, potatoes, rape, pumpkin leaves, cabbage, fish, chicken, beef and nshima.  Nshima is their staple food and we have it at least once a day.  It is a tasteless mix of dried and pounded corn with water.  MMMM!!  Everything else is quite good.  The chickens are fresh as in killed just before we eat them.  The fish looks nasty but tastes very good. 
On thursays I am fed lunch by the Peace Corps.  That will end soon as it gives me explosive diarrhea every time.(More on that later)  My host mom said she would make me a pack lunch and I will no longer have to eat the PC food. 
Drink consists primarily of beer and water.  I usually drink Mosi which is brewed in Zambia and is a simple lager.  No more about beer because it makes me sad.

Restroom Facilities:
Our restroom is a clay hut with a hole in the center above a pit.  Peeing is easy since I am a guy but squatting has taken a little getting used to.  Dropping the logs into a opening about 5 inches by 12 inches is easy unless you have the runs and then things get tricky.  Also, I do not suggest trying to do number 1 and 2 at the same time, a mess is sure to follow.
Going to the restroom at night is about the most dangerous thing to do here.  One night Kelly, Larry, myself and Ozzie(a Zambian) were visiting a fellow PCT.  Larry went to the bathroom in a mefloquin induced haze(mefloquin is one example of malaria meds and is psychoactive)  He did not see the black mamba waiting just inside the door.  While peeing he noticed it right next to his foot however, due to the meds he simply finished peeing, walked out and told us a snake was in the chimbushi.  Keep in mind the black mamba is the fastest and most poisonous snake in all of africa.  Zambian policy is to kill all snakes on sight.  Ozzie immeditaley springs into action and pummels the snake with large bricks thrown with the accuracy of a major league pitcher.  Once it was dead we noticed it was a black mamba and Larry was lucky he was not bit because death can occur within 20 minutes.  He quickly decided to switch medication.

Transportation:
Holy crap the roads are bad here.  The tarmac is fine but as soon as you leave it the dirt roads are filled with potholes.  Just riding in a PC cruiser is an adventure.  However, riding the mountain bikes on the roads and around the trails is awesome.  The scenery is great and nothing beats riding through the african countryside.  The only drawback is Kelly usually wrecks or breaks her bike at least once each trip. 

Animals:
I am sure Zambia has some wonderful animals I just have no idea where they are.  There sure as hell are a lot of bugs though.  Millipedes, giant web spiders, wall spiders, cockroaches  and about a jillion types of ants.  We have seen the army driver ants and they bite really hard.  One day I was waiting to draw water from the pump and failed to notice that all the Zambians were standing on the opposite side of the pump.  I figured it was because I am the white guy but eventually one of them told me I probably should move.  It was this moment when I noticed the ground all around me was moving.  I was standing in the middle of the driver ants.  I quickly moved away and that was when the biting began.  My god do they hurt!!!  We also see lizards and toads all the time.  The toads seem to have a liking for Kelly's bed and about twice a week I have to remove one while she screams.  The toads are harmless but they attract the highly poisonous snakes.  Birds are everywhere and gorgeous but there is a suspicious lack of wild mammals.  The only wild mammal I have seen are bats.  I belive this is because anything larger gets eaten by people.

Language:
I am learning to speak Lunda.  The locals where I live call it the chinese of Zambia.  Hardly anyone here speaks it and when people come up to me asking for free shit I play the lunda card.  I simply start speaking lunda which immediatly confuses them and they walk away.  I love the Lunda card :)  Less than a million people world wide speak lunda but it is the language of the area where our site is.  Here is a little sample "itala da walwa" which means "house of beer".

Training:
Training is a mix of health, environmental education and mostly farm related stuff.  I have learned to make charcoal from corn husks and cobs.  I can build and harvest honey from a hive(theoretically).  We have also learned about various farming techniques and the usefullness of many of the local trees.  Classes are mixed with sessions where we actually plant trees, gardens and visit local farmers.

Anyway, Kelly and I are currenlty at the provincial capital of North-western province waiting to get our first chance to use Lunda while surrounded by people who actually speak it.  By thursday we will get our first look at our actual site.  AWESOME

See ya

John

Saturday, April 2, 2011

headed to NW Zambia

Today we are preparing for our first view at our actual site.  We will leave tomorrow and be there for about 10 days.  It is in the north western province about 14 hour drive from Lusaka.  AKA in the middle of f@#%$% nowhere.  Actually, it is not that bad but the yearly rainfall there is roughly double that of home.  Time to put the rubber boots to good use.  Tommorrow I will post some more when I am able to use the internet for free.

Saturday, February 19, 2011

Quickly checking in from Lusaka

I am alive and well here is Lusaka, Zambia.  Currently, I am at a big shopping mall just like at the states using an internet cafe of sorts.  It is hot and humid and I like it, mostly.  The beer is pretty good as long as you like lagers.  I have found that hanging out at the bar and talking to locals is a useful method of getting information.  I guess I go where I am comfortable when everything around me is new and crazy.

Tuesday, February 15, 2011

From PDX to JFK

Flight to Philly
We hopped onto a plane in PDX around 8:00 am on sunday.  We were accompanied by former Portland Mayor Tom Potter and Senator Jeff Merkeley.  They were both very nice to talk to and supportive of our adventures.  During the second half of our flight Sal Palantonio from ESPN was on the flight but I did not get a chance to speak with him.  However, while flying I learned of the existence of one "craft" brewery in Lusaka, Zambia and pints of beer cost between $1 and $2 USD.

Philly
While in Philly we were able to see the Liberty Bell and get a tour of Independence Hall.  The room where the Declaration of Independence and the Constitution were created was awesome to see and made me feel very patriotic.  Of course we also had a genuine Philly cheese steak from the place recommended by the locals,  Jim's Steak House.  It was good but frankly I think Heiny makes better ones at his tailgater.

Staging
During staging we did several meet and greet activities with other 30 volunteers bound for Zambia.  This was broken up by bouts of eating and drinking.  We had some excellent pizza(yes pizza), awesome pasta and some of the best sushi I have ever had.  The beer however left much to be desired.  I had a Yard's IPA which could have been one of the worst IPAs I have ever had.

Anyway this will be the last post for a couple weeks.   Next time it will be from Zambia!!!

Sunday, February 13, 2011

PDX

We are sitting here at PDX waiting for our plane and still not completely ready.  There is not way we are going to leave the country without forgetting something.  On a side note, each time I use the porcelain throne I wonder what the next thing I will be sitting on will be.  Also, I think my last Oregon beer for a long time  is a Bridgeport IPA,  sad!

Saturday, February 12, 2011

Love Mom and Dad, F#@! T-Mobile!

Just had a great day with my parents.  Spent the day playing cribbage and monopoly until they got bored. Then my 70+ year old parents forced me to go their local bar(which is a truck stop) and have some beers.  I gotta love my folks they go out to the pub several times a week just to hang with friends.  It is nice to know they will have people to be with while I am out adventuring. 

The beer was actually badly needed because T-Mobile had pissed me off earlier.  About 14 months ago I signed up for a contract and was told by the rep. that the cancelation fee would be waived if I left the country before my contract was up, perfect.  I called yesterday to cancel and am told that a month ago the policy changed and I would be charged a $200 cancelation fee with no other option.  BULL#@!%   

Saturday, February 5, 2011

Update

After spending most of Thursday regaining my voice and losing the pounding headache created Wednesday night I have been able to play v-ball for the last time in Corvallis for quite a while.  I had a blast and the exercise finished off my hangover.  Today, Kelly and I spent the afternoon with family and had a good time eating excellent food and wondering when the next time we will be able to eat like this again.

Sunday, January 30, 2011

3 days left at Suds and a lot of packing to do

Only 3 days of work left and then I am unemployed!  Whoo hoo!  Kelly and I are currently dismantling our house and it is quickly becoming a barren wasteland.  Just practice for Zambia I suppose.