Zambia

Zambia

Thursday, July 12, 2012

The World is a Turnin'


I awoke about 5:00 am the morning of Dec. 5th.  Kelly was already in Solwezi waiting to head to her girls camp on Sunday.  I was starting the first leg of my journey to Lusaka for an alcohol awareness workshop.  My plan was to see Kelly in Solwezi Saturday night and travel to Lusaka the next day.  I ate a quick breakfast and started riding my bike through the forest.  It was a beautiful morning, somewhat foggy and the forest was full of activity and sounds.  About half an hour later I arrived in the BOMA and locked my bike up at the church and went to the bus station which is really just a large mud pit where the buses pull over.  I quickly found my friend from the village who I was travelling with and to our disappointment all three buses were completely full.  It was the end of a school quarter and many children were headed home.  Even the extra third bus that was brought in for the large flow of people was full.  Our next option was to get on a canter truck.  A canter truck is a small truck, about 20 feet long; with a flatbed that has very short removable rails. 
(Originally, I was going to write a detailed description of this day.  I started writing the blog post quite some time ago but got distracted with other things.  Now, that I am writing it again I do not think a detailed description is a good idea.  If I did it would come out with too many negative images that conjured quite a lot of anger in me.  As my experience in Zambia is truly a very enjoyable one I do not want my blog to misrepresent that.  So, here is a condensed version.)
My friend and I paid for transport on the canter truck.  I squeezed into the cab and my friend got on the back which was full of people and standing room only.  It was already a hot and humid day and I started to doze off in the sauna like cab.  I awoke to the sound of the truck leaving the tarmac.  Within a fraction of a second I realized we were going to flip, luckily I had my seat belt on and my bag of dirty laundry in my lap.  I immediately pulled in my extremities, wrapped myself around my clothes bag and proceeded to ride out the event.  The truck rolled one time and since the engine is just under the seats of the cab and a jug of petrol was sitting in the cab also, became a spinning whirligig of toxic, flammable and dirty fluids and containers.  Once the truck stopped my mind went to the people who were standing in the back.  Basically, my thoughts were “holy shit, what happened to those people and what does it look like out there!”
I climbed out to the truck having steeled myself for some potentially pretty gruesome scenes.  Personally, I was covered in petrol, sans glasses as they were somewhere out the window, and a few minor cuts with some pain from my side.  I found, through a miracle of center of gravity and angular momentum, the vast majority of injuries was limited to head wounds.  I tried my cell phone which conveniently looked fine but the microphone was actually broken.  It took me several calls to realize I could hear them just fine but no one could hear anything I said.  I then quickly shot out a few text messages i.e. calls for help and started to further assess the situation.  Many people were walking around dazed as they were confused and bleeding profusely.  I found my friend.  A piece of his scalp about the size of a baseball had been filleted from the side of his head.  I helped him get settled and began to look at the condition of the others.  (It is at this point that I am going to cut the story short.  The “rescue operation” and various events which followed is what caused the anger in me and I have chosen not to color my blog with those thoughts and emotions.  Of the twenty plus people standing in the back of the truck only one died but I am not privy to the condition of the vast majority of the passengers once they reached the medical facilities.)

There are three important facts that needed to be kept in mind during the accident:
1.       1.        I had minor cuts
2.       2.         Other people were bleeding profusely
3.       3.         About 10-15% of Zambia is HIV positive
As a result, I had to rush down to Lusaka to start a post-exposure prophylaxis.  It is essentially a month long heavy dose of anti-retroviral medication which prevents the virus from replicating, giving your body an opportunity to cleanse itself naturally.  The medication has a huge list of side effects but fortunately I was only hit with minor ones.  During my thirty days I primarily experienced a general tiredness and morning nausea but never actually vomited.  The worst part (not really) was not being able to drink. The thirty days covered Christmas and New Year’s which we spent on Lake Malawi.  Malawi was a wonderful experience and even though I could not partake fully in the festivities I still enjoyed myself.  Since my treatment I have been tested three times, all negative, and have now been given the green light as HIV negative.  Quite an eye opening experience but since then I have returned to enjoying Zambia and having a great time in the dark continent.

Tuesday, March 13, 2012

More on Food

For the last few months I have been able to eat fresh fruits everyday.  The pineapples are extremely sweet and cheap.  Due to the areas remoteness, more pineapples are produced than can be transported.  As a result I can buy a pineapple the size of my head for 50 cents or less.  Our house is surrounded by mango trees.  Everyday I simply step outside and pluck a fresh mango from the trees.  The season is almost over I will miss them but I am a bit tired of eating mangoes everyday.  We have also successfully grown watermelons, carrots, cucumbers, beans and a variety of other edible plants.  The forest provides a variety of fruits, mushrooms and greens.  The fruits are usually about the size of a date but mostly seed.  The mushrooms are very "meaty" and it seems to be impossible to get all the dirt out of them.  I do believe these mushrooms would fetch a good price in an American market as they are similar to some of the fancier types available at home.  The forest greens are actually very nice and have a bit of a sweet taste.  All in all it is nice to be able to eat products picked wild in an African forest.

We also get honey from the area.  We held a beekeeping workshop a few weeks ago and processed some freshly harvested honey comb.  Afterwards, we had almost 20 liters of honey.  It is fantastic!  I like to sit with a spoon and just eat it.  However, if I keep it open for long it attracts African killer bees.  More than a few times I have had to stop processing because more bees were falling into the hot liquid and dying than I was actually removing.   Also, these guys have earned their name of killer bees and you definitely do not want to excite them too much.  The forest also provides another insect based food, flying termites.  The locals simply fry them and eat.  They actually taste just fine and are not at all bad to eat.

Meat is by far the most difficult thing to come by, but I have had a variety of types.  In Lusaka, I tried crocodile and warthog.  The crocodile is excellent.  It is a soft and tasty white meat.  On the other hand, warthog is awful.  I have never had anything so gamey and its skin was tough like leather.  The best meat I have had has been purchased right in the village.  One afternoon a man on a bicycle came through the village with a mealie meal sack of fresh meat strapped to the back of the bike.  At one time, buying meat off the back of a bicycle would have seemed absurd but I was excited.  It was suppose to be some kind of antelope but since they do not know the English name and I do not know the Lunda name it is impossible to be sure just exactly what you are eating.  I bought the mystery meat and Kelly made an excellent stew.  If it truly was antelope then we probably ate poached meat taken from some reserve since their are not any free roaming animals of decent size left.  However, I am still looking forward to my next chance to buy a slab of meat of unknown origin from the back of a bicycle in the middle of a blistering 90 degree day!

Up next:  John gets in a car accident!